Martina Muller

 Courtesy of Martina Muller

I was very fortunate to talk to Martina Muller, head designer of her own label called Callisti, which she launched in 2007. Martina was born and lives in Vienna, Austria where she designs and sells her collections in her own store. She mainly focuses on women’s ready to wear but recently branched out to launch a couture line in 2009 showcasing her gorgeous evening dress designs. Martina recently participated in Vancouver Fashion Week in November 2011 where she showcased her Spring/ Summer 2012 collection. This collection featured stunning, tailored, feminine day and eveningwear designs with contrast colour blocking.  Here is what she had to say.

SP: What inspired you to become a fashion designer?

MM:  It wasn't my conscious wish or decision to do fashion-design... it just happened... I always loved to draw women in beautiful dresses... and with the age of 13 I sewed my first shirt.. at that time also a big reason for me to do so was because u couldn’t really get nice good fitting clothes in my hometown Vienna so the best way for me was simply to produce it myself... and my passion for it just was growing and growing... I am autodidact... I love what I do.

SP: You were only 19 when you showed your first collection in a fashion shop in Vienna. What was it difficult designing, creating, and marketing a collection at such a young age?

Well at this time it wasn’t a full perfectly done image... didn’t really have a corporate identity... I just did what I loved to do... I created a collection... not really a marketing behind it... a friend of mine opened up a fashion-store... he loved my style and creations and decided to present my collections there.

SP: How did you decide to call your label Callisti?

MM: I was on holidays in Greece / Santorini with my ex-boyfriend Michael Schwarz... we both did design... he graphic and I fashion... we had a lot to talk and brainstorm about... there have been so many creative inspiring moments between us... we found the word 'Kalliste' and its meaning in a travel guide about the island... we changed the name a little bit into Callisti... it comes from the new Greek and it means "for the most beautiful".. When we read this we both knew that this is going to be the name for my new fashion label that we would create...

Courtesy of Martina Muller

SP: Your designs at Vancouver Fashion Week were stunning! What was your main inspiration for this collection?

Thank you so much! Actually this collection is all about femininity... my biggest intention was to create dresses that beautiful women would love to wear, would feel sexy in it but still with a classy stylish touch... it’s a very wearable collection!

SP: Your evening dress designs from your collection Venzia Drama are very feminine, tailored and sexy! What types of fabric did you use for this collection?

MM: In this collection I mostly use elastic materials, satin & chiffon... the cuts are tight-fitting and the asymmetric style is an important theme.

SP: What fashion designer inspires you most and why?

MM: I adore Lanvin for his feminine, stylish but classy dresses... Rick Owens for his really cool, futuristic, edgy style which still is a kind of sexy... Elie Saab for his amazing and absolutely stunning evening gowns

SP: What was the hardest part about launching your own label?

Everything about launching a new label is not easy but if you give 100% it will work out... never give up!! 

Courtesy of Martina Muller

SP: Your accessory designs are very unique and I especially like the purse that is worn as a belt around the hips with a small pouch. How did you come up with this design?

MM: The motive to design this fierce belt with a little bag was: if you go out to dance... or u go to work... whatever... if u do things where u mostly need both free hands... and a bag would a kind of disturb... thatfore I designed this belt with a small pouch - the most important stuff does fit in it and it looks really cool

SP: What piece of advice would you give to someone wanting to launch their own label in the fashion industry?

MM: In my case what always worked is: no matter what u do - only do it if you really want & love it... if you don’t have a sponsor start moderate - a label has to be built up and grow slowly... u only get great response for good work and this still doesn’t mean that you start to earn the money u need to investigate... u have to prove and grow and your work has to get better and better... you really need continuity... everything that’s very fast on the top is fast bland & out. Especially in the beginning be aware of spending too much money (that u don’t have and didn’t earn until then) in the wrong things... make little steps... when u decide to participate at international fashion weeks and happenings... don’t forget that in the first 4 seasons you will probably not get any cent back... Always give 100%... put all your passion in there... passion is the code word.

It was great to talk to Martina and learn more about international designers. Martina's collection at Vancouver Fashion Week was stunning and we hope she comes back again to showcase her designs. You can check out her designs at http://www.callisti.at.